Family Vacation: New River Gorge National Park, WV

Our trip to the New River Gorge National Park was our second and last family vacation of 2022.  It was kind of an impromptu, almost last-minute plan.  We were originally going to take a trip with my parents to the Hudson Valley as a partial celebration of our anniversary, but after finding out that Aura would be missing a week of school during the dates I picked and realizing that we wanted to try managing the kids on our own (like we do day to day), we shifted gears.  I had never even heard of New River Gorge until it was designated a national park in 2021 and now I can't believe it wasn't on our radar before.  It's amazing, beautiful, a relatively short drive away, and there's so much to do!  

I found a charming converted farmhouse in Hico, WV, just ten minutes away from the park, and booked us five nights the week before school starts and days before Iris's first birthday.  We ended up leaving one day early but not because we weren't enjoying ourselves, more so because the kids were missing the comforts of home and we felt that we had accomplished all that we could in the days we were there.  

We went with the best of intentions - brought a hiking backpack for Iris - but we didn't end up doing much hiking.  The park is actually quite large so to be at one part and get to another might take an hour by car.  The driving was tiring (and boring) for the kids and of course, the drives there and back were long, too.  We also had to get back to the house for milk/food and naps for Iris so that put a hamper on spending too much time away from the house.  

It also rained our first day in town so we didn't do much but relax at the house and get settled.  That was also challenging as the house was not equipped with toys and things for Aura to play with.  At some point we went to Walmart and got her play-doh.  There also wasn't a lot of safe space for Iris to crawl and explore so we were mostly holding her or had her in the high chair/play pen.  There was a lovely sun porch that we spent a lot of time in during the day as a family and Evan and I chatted out there after the kids had gone to bed.  There was also a nice sitting area in the back that I wish we could've taken more advantage of but it was kind of buggy out there so we didn't.  

I did see deer almost every day we were at the house.  The first morning I saw a mama deer and her two fawn run across the lawn and then snack on apples.  I suggested to Evan that the airbnb hosts must've snuck onto the property and thrown apples out back to attract the deer for us.  I guess I expect or anticipate more from airbnb hosts than what's realistic because upon further investigation I saw that there was an apple tree on property.  Evan and I had a good laugh about that.  I saw three young bucks one evening and then one giant buck (at least an eight pointer) one night, who got spooked and took off as soon as he spotted me looking at him.    

There were a lot of challenges on this trip trying to balance the needs of both kids and also, get out and do things that we wanted to do and get the whole family on board.  That said, it was important that we did it this way so that we can know definitively that we can do it as a family of four.  I honestly don't think much would've been different or better had other hands been available.  It might've been worse because there wasn't as much space to spread out as I had thought prior to our arrival.  I also don't think we would've had much time to ourselves which would've potentially been the goal had my parents been around, for example.  The only real difference is that we were scurrying around a little bit more, just as we would at home, and we had to clean up the house ourselves on the way out.  

Traveling as a family of four should only get easier as next time we won't need to make formula and we probably won't need as much equipment like the playpen, highchair, etc.  The bigger Iris gets the easier everything else will get.  We did discover, however, that having a potty-trained child doesn't necessarily make things much easier.  On the drive there Aura said on three different occasions that she needed to pee.  The first time we pulled out her old Minnie Mouse potty and I put in a liner on the side of the highway (it was the only place to stop at the time).  She got her pants down and sat but then couldn't go. We kept driving until we found a rest area and then Evan took her into a family bathroom with her special, kid-sized toilet lid. She wouldn't go then either.  Finally, about an hour outside of our destination we pulled off into a parking lot and I put her in a pull-up (a leftover one we had in our hiking/baby bag) and she peed.  Later when we got to the house, with everything set up properly, she had an accident and peed all over the floor.  Nothing like that happened again but it was a good reminder that being potty-trained doesn't necessarily translate to no problems!  

We were able to change Iris's diaper in the car on several occasions but she's in a very wiggly stage so had a fit literally every time we changed her, whether that was on the bed, couch, or passenger seat of the car.  She's even giving us a hard time on her changing table at home.  Oy vey!    

With Aura the thing I felt the worst about is that despite being difficult here and there I do think she would've been game for some of the available activities.  On our best day as a family, when we visited the Sandstone Falls, I know Aura would've loved to have spent a nice chunk of time dipping her feet in the New River, throwing rocks, just goofing off. Unfortunately, because it was such a long drive to get there, almost immediately after we walked out on the boardwalk to see the falls, we had to then turn around and head back to the car because Iris needed a food pouch and shortly after, a nap.  Again, I do think this stuff will get easier as Iris gets a little older and the kids' needs and wants align a little better. They both like being together and playing together but with Iris's current feeding and nap needs, they're not on the same schedule yet.

Still, we did have some very nice family moments even in the midst of some challenges.  As I mentioned, we all loved the Sandstone Falls.  It was a drive but it was absolutely worth it.  Iris loved getting out of the car and was kicking up her heels and trying to fly out of our arms.  Mentally she's so ready to walk and run around.  Aura and I also trekked down (and then up) the steps at the Visitor Center for a great viewpoint of the New River Gorge Bridge and then we did it again as a family of four on our last night.  On our last morning we took in one last viewpoint as a family at Hawks Nest State Park.  No one else was there and it was cool and shaded.  Just breathtakingly beautiful and peaceful.  A weird, big flying bug caught a ride with us in the car so Evan pulled off to let it out.  We didn't see it leave but we didn't see it in the car either so resumed our drive. Aura kept saying that the bug was still in the car and that Iris was playing with it but with a little smirk on her face.  Evan and I jokingly said we didn't believe her, we all laughed, and moved on.  About thirty minutes later the bug showed up on Aura's door and we all laughed because Aura had been telling the truth about the bug still being in the car (not about Iris playing with it).  Evan pulled off again and we finally got it out.  

We all ate the most Dunkin Donuts we ever have in our lives - every morning, in fact.  It's a bit of a food desert there and despite trying at least two of the highly recommended restaurants in town - Pies & Pints (pizza and craft beer place) and Cathedral Cafe - we weren't overly impressed.  We even tried out two of their local ice cream places but discovered that no one makes their own - they serve Hershey's!  I imagine that in the ensuing years the tourism industry will pick up and with that, better food options.  They've definitely got all the activities you'd want but the availability of good, clean places to stay and decent food could use some work.  We liked where we stayed but don't think we'd stay there again because it wasn't entirely kid-friendly and the kitchen, barely functional.  We had to wash bottles and the sink not only didn't have a garbage disposal but didn't drain properly.  They even sent a repair-person to unclog it but we realized pretty quickly that it wasn't a clog, but the old plumbing, pipes, etc. that was the problem.  

One of the trip highlights for me, aside from our time together as a family and the time Evan and I spent together on the enclosed porch, was doing the Bridge Walk.  This was meant as a bit of an early 40th birthday present for me and also a personal challenge/facing my fears type of feat.  Evan watched the girls while I did it solo.  It was a nice group, twelve of us including our very sweet guide, Calila.  I'm not really sure what I was thinking as I was low-level freaked out the entire time.  I somehow had the presence of mind to be able to take pictures and even text but I could feel the tension and fear in my body every time traffic went over the bridge and the catwalk and everything surrounding us reverberated, which was pretty much the entire time!  It was a little anticlimactic doing that without anyone there to celebrate with but I'm still glad I did it.  The views couldn't be beat and no one will ever be able to take that accomplishment away from me.  

All of that to say, I'd call this trip a sampling or taste of the area and we're interested in going back for seconds and maybe more.  I could definitely envision the New River Gorge area becoming a repeat vacation spot as it offers so much to do. When the girls are older we'll hike, maybe white water raft, rock climb, etc.  I'd also love to go in the fall.  With SO many trees I'm sure the foliage is spectacular.

On our drive there we took a break in Natural Bridge, VA and stopped at the Virginia Safari Park for a drive-thru feeding. We got two food buckets (one for me and one for Aura) and they were snatched out of our hands within seconds. I lasted a little longer than Aura but when I resisted one alpaca's (or was it a llama?) overtures s/he promptly snorted green muck at us. It was pretty funny if a bit stinky.  Evan wasn't too pleased!  Then we closed our windows and just enjoyed the drive and observing the animals.

I had intended for us to visit Natural Bridge and even Dinosaur Kingdom II but we ran out of time.  Iris started to get agitated with the slow movement of the car (she was ready to nap).  We also skipped these options on the way back home in an attempt to power through and get home ASAP.  Maybe next time.  

Our first views of the bridge:

The apple eaters in our yard:

The biggest, little town around is Fayetteville. That's where the "good" food is.

Everything leading up to and then doing the Bridge Walk:

The viewpoint from the Visitor Center:

The amazing view from Fayette Station Road:

Sandstone Falls:

The "Grandview"

Morning fog from Hawks Nest State Park:

We were able to stop at Wright's Dairy-Rite in Staunton, VA for lunch on the way home.  We actually tried to go there on the way to New River but they were closed.  These things are never as good as you expect or hope them to be.  We didn't even get milkshakes.  The corn dogs were yummy though!  

Family Vacation: Great Smoky Mountains National Park

When embarking upon our first family vacation we focused on convenience, ease, and flexibility.  We knew we didn't want to fly and haul a bunch of baby-related gear through an airport and on a plane, so a road trip was a no-brainer.  We also knew that we didn't want to go somewhere urban with a big must-see list in case AJ was being uncooperative and thwarted our efforts to explore.  I've had the Great Smoky Mountains on my list for a while now and after fall, spring seemed like the best season to visit.  I thought it would offer a nice balance of relaxation and diversion.  We were probably overly ambitious taking an almost 10-month old on a 7.5 - 8 hour drive (more like ten hours with three strategic stops for feeding/changing diapers), but AJ passed her first travel tests with flying colors!  We've got an adaptable and open-minded explorer on our hands. Thank goodness.  Maybe our travel adventures aren't over after all.

We googled and followed the advice of other parents before us by getting on the road extremely early (4:00am there, 5:00am back) so that we could get through the first few hours while AJ slept.  We also put her in overnight diapers so that we didn't have to change her as often as we would at home.  We made sure to change her out of her footie pajamas and into rompers or shirts/shorts as the day warmed up.  Babies sweat too!  When we stopped we stretched out her limbs and let her "stand" on our laps so she could bounce around.  Finally, we made sure to bring some of her favorite toys to divert her and when she became fussy and tired, we put on white noise that Evan downloaded onto his phone before we left town.  Since that's how she goes to sleep at home, it worked like a charm.  All in all, she was extremely accommodating.

A HUGE help was that my parents joined us on our vacation and between our two vehicles we brought all of AJ's necessities - hiking backpack, high chair, play fence, pack 'n play, formula, bottles, clothes, diapers, wipes, toys, books, etc.  AJ had all of her usual things in an unusual place so that made the transition easier.  Her sleeping habits suffered a little in that she stayed up late and had a couple of middle of the night parties.  I imagine it was the excitement of being with her grandparents for a prolonged stretch and in a new place.

The whole family had a wonderful time in our isolated haven about fifteen minutes from Bryson City, NC.  I'd say our week was split evenly between leisure and low-key activities.  Mostly, we enjoyed the magnificent view of Fontana Lake from our cabin's porch.  I feel like cabin is a bit of a misnomer as it conjures up an image of something rustic and maybe even falling apart.  Our cabin was built in the past five years or so and has modern amenities and comforts.  It's why I like to think of us as having gone "glamping".  In fact, being out in that environment, surrounded by dense forest, a water source, and singing birds and insects, it was reminiscent of the ecolodge we stayed at in Nicaragua.  That was and is one of my all-time favorite vacation experiences.

It was nice spending time together as a family.  I didn't get in as much reading as I had planned but we watched Jeopardy (it's hard to pass up when James Holzhauer is on a multi-week winning streak), observed every sunset, played Password and star-gazed one evening, collaborated on crossword puzzles, enjoyed local ice cream, ate dinner together, talked, and shared in the joy of watching AJ master sitting up.

Travel dates: May 18 - May 25, 2019

Since our days weren't jam-packed I'm just going to share the highlights.

I loved watching how the light changed as the hours passed by:

It rained for a brief fifteen minutes our first evening and then not a drop of precipitation the rest of the week.  We really lucked out weather-wise.  

There are three cabins side by side.  We were in the middle cabin (with the best view) while the owners were on one side and another guest cabin was on our other side.  The other guest cabin was empty for our first several days so Evan and I snuck over to their porch to get a different view of the sunset.

Then we returned to our porch and watched the colors deepen there.  

That first morning we got a glimpse into why they're called the Great "Smoky" Mountains.  Then we watched the smoke burn off with the sunrise.    

  

Mingo Falls:

After a day of rest, the five of us drove to Cherokee, NC and did the short but moderately difficult hike to Mingo Falls.  It's mostly stairs and all uphill, .8 miles roundtrip.  Evan got to try out a new hiking backpack with AJ attached.  She was a little put off at first but once she realized she was going for a ride, she perked right up.

I was looking forward to seeing lots of wildflowers throughout the week.  That didn't pan out but there were butterflies everywhere.

Oconaluftee Visitor Center:

From Mingo Falls we continued our drive to the Oconaluftee Visitor Center, one of the southern entrances to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  I didn't realize until we had gotten there that park entrance is FREE.  What a pleasant surprise!

While there we had a relaxing lunch in the shade by the river and Evan got one of the park rangers to stamp AJ's National Park Passport.  I think this is going to be a really neat reminder of all the historical places around the U.S. that she's seen, whether she remembers them or not.  I love that we found out about this program and hope that we stay on top of it as we take family adventures.

A couple of nights later Evan and I returned on our own hoping to spy some elk.  We didn't see any at the center but we saw about a dozen on the way there and took pictures on the way back home.  Their population suffered from overhunting and the last elk in North Carolina was killed in the late 1700s.  Fortunately, the National Park Service reintroduced them to the park in 2001.  They're most prominent in the Cataloochee Valley, but that was a bit of a drive from our home base so we didn't venture out that way.  

  

Clingmans Dome:

We continued from the Oconaluftee Visitor Center to Clingsman Dome, the highest peak in the park.  We were all going up but there was a sign at the base that discouraged the use of strollers.  My mom and dad volunteered to stay behind with AJ so Evan and I could do the climb together.  Now that was a steep incline.  I was huffing and puffing.  Our calf muscles were sore for days.  Still, I'm glad we did it.  The views were lovely and the exertion was good for us.

On the way out of the park we made sure to stop by the sign to take some family photos.  When AJ's older we'll have to tell her about the pooplosion we had to clean up right after our photoshoot.  Ah, the joys of parenting!

Another smoky sunrise:

Indian Creek and Tom Branch Falls:

Evan and I were able to get away for a solo morning hike in the Deep Creek Recreation Area.  We brought my parents and AJ on another day.  It's a fairly flat and easy hike at 1.6 miles roundtrip but both times we were there it was oppressively humid.  The dense canopy of trees provided shade from the sun, but it also trapped in the moisture. 

Quick anecdote: While AJ was chilling in her backpack that Evan hadn't toted yet, we happened to chat with a woman and her very friendly labrador.  We all love dogs and AJ is no different.  What we learned, however, is that she loves dogs from afar.  The labrador excitedly and with a wagging tail, gave her a wet kiss.  AJ's face devolved from surprised to confused to disgusted to unhappy and then she cried!  It was so sad.  I think the dog's feelings were hurt.  She's probably never had that reaction before.  I think AJ likes the chase and that's why she loves her kitties.  She missed her/our cats so much. Her face lit up and she squealed when she saw them when we returned home.     

Tom Branch Falls:

Indian Creek Falls:

 There were a ton of butterflies so I took my time trying to capture their iridescent colors.

Road to Nowhere:

After our solo hike in the Deep Creek Recreation Area Evan and I took a drive down the Road to Nowhere.  It's a six mile stretch of road that, as the name suggests, dead ends.  I don't remember exactly what the original intentions were but environmental issues arose and instead of finding a way to work through them, construction was halted.  We got quite a pleasant surprise when we spotted several wild turkeys.  They move way faster than I would've expected.  It was hard to capture them on camera.

The males were particularly elusive.

Butterflies eating a "road apple" AKA horse poop, as my dad explained:

A handsome male cardinal chilling in our backyard:

What we'll miss most of all:

We really did have a good time.  We saw lots of cool wildlife, even a couple of snakes on our big family hike in the Deep Creek Recreation Area.  We didn't see any black bears though we would've welcomed a (distant) sighting.  Feeling like we were in our own private, little world on top of our barely inhabited mountain was lovely.  If we missed out on anything it was water-related recreation. There's fishing, tubing, kayaking, etc.  Of course, it's hard to do anything water-based with a baby so we skipped that this time.  I also have a half-interest in zip-lining, which is also offered.  We'd definitely go again. I can't imagine the park is too different on the Tennessee side, but I'd be willing to give it a try.  I'm not surprised it's the most visited national park.  It's free, beautiful, and wild.